who cooks your food?

Food softens the edges.
It gives us the space to enter into hard things, gently.

That, is what I love.

Food is political, emotional, spiritual, sexual, agricultural, among so many other things.
food is important.

I’ve been attending some talks at my local university, which just so happens to be my Alma Mater.
Last night I had the pleasure of listening to John T. Edge, among others, speak on the title: “Race at the Southern Table – The Debts of Our Pleasure”

First and foremost, I have to recognize my place of privilege. As a white American male, my backpack is very light. Meaning, historically, I have a lot going for me based on my appearance. It is important to say this, because a lot of people are lucky and work hard, but also we live in a world where those things aren’t written in stone.

I am a cook.

I work in a stuffy, windowless kitchen and get paid slightly above Mississippi’s minimum wage. Which is probably one of the lowest in the nation. I live simply. I pay my bills. I have a few beers. I work hard, for little money. I don’t do it for the money.

I do the work because my heart is bound together with yours.

Maybe I am, as they say, an “agri-poser” — or hipster cook with tattoos wishing I had a Pok Pok to frequent on a daily basis. But I don’t. I learned how to eat and cook well in Portland, Oregon. I learned what farm to table actually looks like. I worked under some shitty owners, and I’ve worked under some really great chefs whose kindness, sternness and freedom let me have a voice in a kitchen without much experience.

That is my place. I give a shit about what I do. I work hard. I can’t fall asleep at night because I’m thinking about what it is I’ll be cooking the next day. I get angry at lazy cooks and business owners. When I am in a kitchen, it is my responsibility to own it. Even when my name isn’t on a lease, I own that shit.

That, is what I do.


But this is the story of the southern table. No doubt one that has seen so many changes in the history of my state. The conversation continues to roll on today as a person who works in the back of restaurants. Southern cuisine owes its allegiance to the African American communities, First Nation tribes and all others who have had to serve privileged class citizens. This, either due to socio-economic class, but also by the color of their skin.

There is a great injustice. Restaurants have a long way to go. It’s a hard business, and Americans are lazy and consume much more than we require. Most restaurants depend on the backs of the poor and minorities and I’ve worked beside people who have really hard stories. I’ve worked with really great, dependable people, and others who can never show up on time. And trust me, laziness comes in all colors and sizes.

It is, though, important to know the stories of the people cooking your food. People are becoming more involved with wanting to know where there food comes from. This is great. I think the next step is wanting to know WHO is cooking their food. Yes, sometimes the Chef will be in. And my biggest mentor worked her ass off in the kitchen.

These conversations are important because as I said earlier, food is important. The future of food is important. The agriculture of our state is so, so important.

I offer this as a conversation.

I am not claiming to be a professional academic or researcher on the matter, but I do have some experience working in the trenches and know that eating food is something people enjoy.

For my people especially, our table is complicated and large and colorful.

We are moving forward, with the ability to look back and to process and to recognize our place in the midst of it all.

That is all I’m asking.

Who cooks your food?


One response to “who cooks your food?”

  1. Mostly, these days, I do (cook my food, that is). It’s hard for me to eat out now due to some serious health issues that I’ve finally realized require some serious restrictions. Restrictions the food industry is not yet equipped to handle.

    I loved your words here: and Americans are lazy and consume much more than we require.

    SO true! One of the things I look for in a good restaurant is a short menu. I really don’t like walking into the Cheesecake Factory (never mind I can’t eat the too-sweet-for-my-pallette desserts laden with a ridiculous amount of sugar and calories), simply because the menu is like 22 pages long. That’s a ridiculous amount of choices, which I regularly blame on my family’s inability to be happy with a good hot pot of soup. My husband regularly complains that I don’t cook for him, but it was just too much to ask of me to work full-time (requiring a commute of almost 2 hours daily), then shop and come home to work up a 5-course home-cooked meal! Real cooking takes time, and that’s what I have the least of these days.

    I’ve learned that I don’t need much food to be satisfied (either hunger or taste buds). Hardest for me in the journey has been learning to throw things away that either don’t taste good or don’t benefit my body. Slowly learning what NOT to buy, but even that is a process. Habit can be a cruel taskmaster.

    I think if I had the time, I would enjoy cooking – for myself and others. But not short-order cooking. Short menu, honing skills on a few dishes, that’s my idea of a good cook.

    Loved this post, Josh! Hope you are doing well in the State we shouted for joy as we drove away from. 😉


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